Author Archive
Skeletons in the Closet Vacheron Constantin, Perrelet, and Louis-Fréderic
The world of luxury watches is one that definitely likes to stick to traditional, conservative designs. Year after year, companies release ever better complications, but all behind watch designs that are classic to the point of boring. But 2009 promises to be a very different year indeed.
Skeleton watches are turning out to be fairly popular this year, especially since a number of prestigious companies released skeletonized designs at the 2009 Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie. If you’re ever been interested in the industrial and intriguing look of skeleton-design watches, this year would be a good time to get one for yourself.
Modern Meets Traditional
Vacheron Constantin has made a name in its 250-odd years of existence as a purveyor of traditional designs. This year, however, they’ve released a design that’s more contemporary than classic.
The Skeleton Patrimony Traditionelle is a much bolder take on the typically conservative designs of the Patrimony Traditionelle collection. Instead of a plain dial, its skeletonized design gives you a full-on view of the complex horology ticking inside it. Watching the Skeleton Patrimony Traditionelle tick the time away is almost like witnessing a live, beating heart.
But even if the watch looks highly technical and very industrial, it doesn’t leave out the luxe factor that made Vacheron Constantin watches famous. Diamonds serve as the hour indices on the watch while a further set of up to 82 diamonds adorn the circumference of the case.
Skeletonized with a Signature
Perrelet is another premium watch company known for classicism and traditionalism in its designs. Like Vacheron Constantin, it’s also released a skeleton design of its own – the Louis-Fréderic split-second chronograph – fusing together function, aesthetics and pure technical skill.
Unlike the Vacheron Constantin opus, the piece from Perrelet is only partially skeletonized; there’s a rim of a dial as well as a radial design done in the distinctive deep blue of luxury watches. However, there’s a generous view of the mechanism at work behind the blues of the face.
There’s a technical side to all this beauty: the Louis-Fréderic is powered by the P-241, an automatic mechanism exclusive to Perrelet. The fact that it’s a chronograph also means that there’s a fair amount of ticking going on, more than what you already see.
Watchmaking Stripes: Panerai The Ferrari Chronograph
Race cars and premium watches have a lot in common. Both items require a talented craftsman to create. Both place equal emphasis on form and function in product designs. Both have their respective hierarchy of brands, and either type of product is prohibitively expensive. For 2009, one more item has been added to this list of common ground: racing giant Ferrari and horology master Officine Panerai came together to make a watch.
And it’s not just any watch. That much you could already infer from your first glance at the unique design and loudly eye-catching color combination of the Panerai Ferrari Chronograph. In an industry where subtle and understated reign supreme, the Ferrari Chronograph’s bold curves and strong colors really set it apart. But this designer watch is no mere astronomically priced trinket.
For one thing, it’s definitely not delicate and frail. Panerai made sure of that by using diamond-like coating (DLC), a chemical treatment that gives the Ferrari Chronograph its scratchproof toughness and unmistakable black finish. With a rubber strap, it’s a clear departure from the restrained styling of the 2008 version with a pink gold case and strap in leather. This year, it’s for the tough guy who’s ready to get a few bumps and bruises.
If you weren’t aware of the partnership, you couldn’t tell at first that this was a Panerai product. Only the Ferrari brand is stamped on the face and the adjustment dial; the other’s logo is stamped on the back. But behind the cool, mysterious face, the watch is Panerai through and through. It’s powered by a 28,800-vibrations per hour OP XII Calibre that’s water-resistant up to 100m and equipped with a 46-hour power reserve.
This 45-mm baby might not be able to go 0 to 200 in 10 seconds, and neither can it make that inimitable Ferrari purr. However, with twice as much history and engineering behind it, this red-and-black beauty isn’t exactly something that you easily compare with other objects. Even with an expected price tag of about $15,000, you can rest assured that this commemorative piece is well worth every cent of it.
The Breitling Navitimer – Renewed
If anything, the watchmaking industry is one that really honors time. Vintage designs and time-honored traditions only get better and more valuable through the years, only receiving small updates every now and then. For 2009, Breitling – another tradition in the field of horology – is celebrating its 125th anniversary with a design that’s more than your average designer watch: the Navitimer.
A Tradition is Born
Breitling traces its roots all the way to St. Imier, Switzerland, where 24 year-old Leon Breitling founded his company for making technical and high-quality timepieces. During World War I, Breitling specialized in manufacturing chronographs, watches and chronometers and chronographs for aviation purposes. That began the company’s association with the aviation industry and many pilots’ affection for the brand.
The Navitimer itself has quite a bit of history associated with it. It was originally designed in the 1940′s (the first model had its market release in 1952) specifically for aviators. This much was proven by the close ties this particular model had with the aviation industry; there was a release where all the units had Association of Pilots and Aviators branding on them.
It’s High Time for Change
For its 125th anniversary, it seems fitting that the company should reprise one of the most iconic Breitling watches in history. The Navitimer has long been the standard bearer for the company, especially because of its popularity with aviators and pilots all around the world.
The reimagining of the Navitimer retains all the features of the classic model, particularly the 38-jewel design, 60-minute totalizer and the time accuracy of up to a quarter of a second. For the anniversary edition, however, Breitling adds its Air Racer design to the metal bracelet, giving it a holed design with a Sixties flair.
If you want one for yourself, you’ll have to act quickly. Only 125 units of the model will be executed in 18-carat gold and the special color combinations. Should you miss that one, you have another chance: 2,009 pieces will also be released, only in less luxurious basic steel and different colors.
Don’t expect these things to be cheap either; insiders expect this new model to retail for at least 5-digit prices. But you can rest assured that that’s money well-spent on a piece of well-engineered history.